Sunday, August 29, 2010

Aloha! Yankee Doodle Dandy



Sorry it's been awhile since posting but finding it hard to set aside the time to write. Upon arrival and check-in at our hotel we changed up and headed out to dinner. Upon a suggestion from the concierge we went to an Egyptian restaurant within walking distance. It was a perfect choice. The ambiance, lighting, people, and food at this place was fantastic. The most exotic dish ordered was two stuffed pigeons (Cox) but the rest of stuff to staples like lamb, chicken, meatballs, or vegetarian dish with noodles. After dinner we had some rice pudding and smoked a bunch of sheesha (hookah) which was really good. While it shouldn't be surprising the Muslims take this no alcohol thing to heart. We have not been to a restaurant yet that serves alcohol. While a glass of wine would be nice our $20 bill for each person after a 2 1/2 hr. dinner isn't too shabby.

Saturday was our first day touring the city. Our guide, Tarek, met us in the hotel lobby. Our tour agency has been been doing a fantastic job so far. We have our own private VW van (like we're in the 70's) and a personal security armed guard assigned to our group by the government. Yes, that's right, we have our own personal security guard that goes with us everywhere. While we feel very safe in Cairo you do see an usual level of security around town. The military and police are pretty much all over and the hotels (primarily where Westerners stay) have metal detectors and bomb sniffing dogs checking all cars coming in. Overall we feel very safe. Anyway, back to the tours...this was a pretty low key day for us to attend a Christian church, Synagogue, and Mosque. Our first stop was the Coptic Church. On the way there we passed through Old Cairo where there were lots of donkeys, horses, wild cats & dogs, and a fair amount of poverty. On our way there, unsurprisingly, we were approached by peddlers selling all the touristy souvenirs. It's been pretty unanimous that every time someone see us they say, "Oh you from America? Aloha! Yankee Doodle Dandy." It's definitely gotten a good laugh out of all of us. Once we arrived at the Coptic Church we headed in and learned about a very historical spot in Cairo. This church was built atop the place where the Holy Family (Mary, Joseph & Jesus) were thought to have stayed during their exodus to Egypt. It's a very small church and while you cannot go down to the room where they stayed due to floods that occurred recently you can see down into the room. It's pretty amazing to think that Jesus may have stayed there hundreds of years ago. Anyway, after this we walked over to the Synagogue which wasn't much to see. The population in Egypt is basically 80% Muslim and 20% Christian. Based on those percentages you can imagine there aren't too many Jews here. Regardless, we got a little background from our extremely knowledgeable tour guide then headed to the biggest Mosque in Cairo. This was a very impressive building and we headed in to the main area where prayers are said daily. The biggest prayer day when people visit the Mosque is Friday's at noon. We sat down at the mosque and Tarek took questions from us for over an hour. There isn't enough time to go into details but we talked politics, religion, dating, nightlife, family and everything else under the sun. It was a very educational and eye opening conversation getting a real world perspective from someone living in Egypt. After this we headed to the Egyptian museum to see King Tut (very impressive) and more mummies and statues than you can shake a stick at. We were there about an 1 1/2 and were pretty beat considering there was no A/C.

We showered up at the hotel and headed out to Old Cairo for dinner based on a recommendation from our tour guide. The food wasn't nearly as good as the previous night but still not bad. Some general observations: Cairo has notorious traffic and it's a well-deserved reputation. There are constant sounds of horns, cars changing lanes, people walking in and across the streets and general chaos everywhere. It's pretty amazing that more people don't die. One of the more shocking things we saw was a father on a moped with his 3 kids the youngest of which was about 4 standing in front of him and his other 2 kids sitting behind him on a busy highway with no helmets. Really unbelievable. After dinner we walked around Old Cairo which was packed with people and tons of shops. After about an hour we hailed some cabs (not easy) and headed back to the hotel, through security, and sat down to have a beer and get everyone's general observations on our trip so far. Yes, they serve beer at the Western hotels (amen). Overall, the trip is exceeding everyone's expectations so far. Tomorrow we have a big day visiting the an outdoor museum and the Pyramids at Giza. More to come....

Ryan

P.S. Apologize for any typos and the general lack of observation. Will try to provide a little more introspective posts in the future rather than just a brain dump but time is tight. Aloha!

Friday, August 27, 2010

Destination Cairo



Well we got into Cairo this afternoon around 3:30 p.m. (8:30 a.m. back home) and well it's hot. Flying into Cairo was unlike any other city as it is literally desert with a city sprouted up around the Nile. And while Vegas is in the middle of the desert you cannot mistake the lack of developed infrastructure or industry. The majority of buildings all look alike and there is of course some smog in the air but not near as bad as Beijing.

Upon arrival we paid $15 for our Visas, went through customs (not real tough) and everyone's bags were there. We were met by a great tour guide who will be with us all three days here. After checking in at the hotel (check out our sweet view of the Nile River) we headed down to the pool to relax for about an hour and took in the sound of Muslim prayers throughout the city which started around sunset and lasted about 30 mins. Right now we're cleaning up and heading out for dinner somewhere around the hotel. We haven't decided on a place yet but some are lobbying for one of the local specialties, stuffed pigeon (not kidding). Of course I'll be making a case for something else so will let you know how it turns out.

Tomorrow we'll be starting out around 8:30 a.m. and hitting up several historical sites so should be a good time. More to come....

Ryan

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Trip Itinerary - Where I'll Be Everyday (in the event of a terrorist attack :-)

No I am not nearly this organized but fortunately our travel agent is. Here is the itinerary she put together for us during our time here. Everything is optional so I'll update changes or updates along the way.

Thursday, 8/26: Leave JFK at 9:55 p.m. arrive Cairo, Egypt at 3:15 p.m.

Friday, 8/27: Check-in to
Cairo Marriott Hotel & Omar Khayyam Casino

Saturday, 8/28:
The day begins with a visit to the world-famous Egyptian Museum with its 100,000 objects covering 5000 years of ancient Egyptian civilization; view Tutankhamun’s treasures and the fascinating Mummy Room. Afternoon tour to Old Cairo to visit the beautiful Coptic Church of St. Sergius where Jesus and the Holy Family stayed after fleeing Jerusalem. Continue to the restored, century-old Ben Ezra Synagogue, the oldest in Egypt. Proceed to the Mosque of Mohammed Ali at the Citadel of Saladin. Drive to the bustling Khan el-Khalili Bazaar, where shopping is an exotic experience (Cairo Marriott Hotel)


Sunday, 8/29: Step back over 5000 years in time today –to the very dawn of history-as you explore the site of the ancient Memphis, with its colossal statue of Ramses II, founded in 3100BC as the first capital of the newly united Kingdoms of Upper and Lower Egypt and her vast and astounding necropolis of Sakkara, where architecture was born. Stroll along the first large buildings in hewn stone in all history; see the centerpiece the soaring Step Pyramid of Pharaoh Zoser, the first stone structure to appear in the world. Drive to Giza; enjoy lunch at Le Meridien Hotel. Afterwards, see the Three Great Pyramids, the only surviving structures of the “7 Wonders of the Ancient World”; enter one of the Pyramids. Visit the astonishing Solar Boat Museum, housing the oldest known ship in the world, uncovered after being buried for over 4500 years. Stand in awe at the magnificent Sphinx carved out of a single piece of stone, guarding the Giza plateau. Try a camel ride before continuing to the unique Karnak Bazaar; refreshments await you – the gems will dazzle you! Overnight in Cairo. Evening: Dinner Cruise & Show on the Nile (Cairo Marriott Hotel)


Monday, 8/30: Transfer to Cairo Airport for the flight to Sharm el Sheikh. Upon arrival you will be transferred to St. Catherine’s and your hotel. In the late evening climb Mt. Sinai to experience the view of sunrise from the mountain top (Where Moses was given the 10 commandments baby!). Overnight at the hotel in St. Catherine’s (St. Catherine’s Village Hotel)


Tuesday, 8/31: Descend for breakfast at the hotel. Later visit the St. Catherine’s Monastery, 14 hundred years old, located at the foot of Mt. Moses (Mount Sinai). The Monastery is one of the oldest monasteries in the world, its original, preserved state is unmatched. It is built around what is thought to be Moses’ Burning Bush and surrounded by gardens and cypresses. You will see priceless works of art, including Arab mosaics, Greek and Russian icons and Western oil paintings. But of perhaps even greater significance is that it is the largest collection, after Vatican, of illuminated manuscripts. The collection consists of some 3,500 volumes in Greek, Coptic, Arabic, Armenian, Hebrew, Slavic, Syriac, Georgian and other languages. Afternoon transfer to the Taba Border and enter Israel at Eilat (Dan Panorama Eilat)

Wednesday, 9/1: Open day in Eilat so probably just hit the beach and check out the local scene (Dan Panorama Eilat)


Thursday, 9/2: Morning transfer to the Arava Border Crossing and enter Jordan where your English-speaking guide awaits to escort you the ancient Nabatean city of Petra. Upon arrival your tour of Petra begins with a horse ride from the main gate of Petra to the entrance of the old city (around 800 meters ride), (you can decide to walk if preferred). Then walk on foot along the « Siq » at the end of the passage you’ll see Petra’s most beautiful monument – The Treasury. Beyond the Treasury, you’ll discover soaring temples; elaborate royal tombs, a theatre, burial chambers and water channels covering an area of about 100 square km, where over 800 monuments. In the first and second century, after the Romans took over, the city reached the peak of its fame. When shipping slowly displaced caravan routes, the city’s importance gradually dwindled; it fell into disuse and was lost to the world until 1812, when it was re-discovered by the Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt. Nowadays Petra is Jordan’s number 1 tourist attraction, known as the “rose-red city half as old as time”. The Khazneh (the Treasury), starred in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.. After lunch, travel south along the Arava Valley to arrive at the Arava Border Crossing and re-enter Israel (Dan Panorama Eilat)


Friday, 9/3: Eilat to Jersusalem -This morning meet your guide and begin our discovery of Israel as we travel north through the Negev. Your first stop at Timna National Park, surrounded by sandstone mountains on three sides, this scenic valley features ancient copper mines, the red volcanic Mt. Timna at its center and “The Mushroom,” a sandstone rock shaped by wind and water resembling a giant mushroom. We will also visit the famous “King Solomon’s Pillars” formed over thousands of wind erosion. Next we travel north to spectacular Ramon Crater, which is 30 miles long in the shape of an elongated heart. The only settlement in the area is a small town of Mitzpe Ramon (Ramon Observation Point) standing over the northern wall of the crater. The crater is 1500 feet deep and encompasses a vast diversity of mountains and rocks offering fantastic colors and forms. We will next visit Kibbutz Sde Boker the realization of the dream envisioned by David Ben Gurion, Israel’s first prime minister and defense minister, who loved the Negev and wanted to settle the desert and make it bloom. While there we will visit the hut in which he lived until his death in 1973, which is preserved exactly as it was and contains the Ben Gurion archives. Near Sde Boker you will also have a chance to visit the Ben Gurion memorial site, where David and Paula Ben Gurion are buried, which also offers a beautiful view of the Nakhal Tsin rift below. Soon arrive in the Golden City of Jerusalem. Overnight at your hotel (King David)


Saturday, 9/4: This morning we drive south to Masada. Ascend by cable car to this last stronghold of the Zealots in their struggle against the Romans. (Masada was declared a “World Heritage site”). Tour Herod’s Palace, synagogue and bathhouse. Descend by cable car and drive to Ein Gedi for a short hike in this desert oasis. Continue to one of the hotels on the shores of the Dead Sea for lunch and a chance to experience an “unsinkable swim” in the mineral rich Dead Sea. Return to Jerusalem for overnight (King David)


Sunday, 9/5: Start the day with a short trip to Mt. Olives for a panoramic view of the city from the east. Enter the Old City via the Dung Gate; walk to the Western Wall. Visit the Davidson Center to see a presentation of the Temple in Old Jerusalem. Enter the Jewish Quarter; walk along the excavated Cardo, once a main street of Byzantine Jerusalem. Walk through the extraordinary Hasmonean Tunnel (tunnel schedule permitting) or The Herodian Mansions, a complex of villa from200 years ago. Drive to Mt. Zion to see the Tomb of David. Overnight at your hotel in Jerusalem (King David)


Monday, 9/6: This morning we will travel to Jerusalem to visit Yad Vashem, memorial to the Holocaust; visit the Museum, Children’s Pavilion and walk along the Avenue of the Righteous. Later travel to Mt. Herzl to pay respects to Israel’s military heroes. Drive via the Supreme Court Building and the Knesset (Parliament), to arrive at the Israel Museum, where you can visit the Shrine of the Book, home of the Dead Sea Scrolls. Time to walk through the Billy Rose Sculpture Garden, see the Scale Model of ancient Jerusalem. Overnight at your hotel in Jerusalem (King David)


Tuesday, 9/7: Depart Jerusalem, and travel north to Nazareth, where Jesus spent His youth, to visit the Basilica of the Annunciation, the Church of St. Joseph and Mary’s Well where the archangel Gabriel announced the Incarnation of the Son of God. Next drive to ancient Cana site of Jesus’ first miracle at a wedding celebration. Continue to Sepphoris (Tzipori), the 1st –Century capital of the Galilee, besides being considered the birthplace of the Blessed Mother, it is one of the most important archeological sites in Israel today. See the magnificent mosaic floors, including the “Mona Lisa” of the Galilee. Make another stop atop Mt. Tabor for a breathtaking view of the Galilee, and where according to Christian tradition, this is the site of the Transfiguration of Christ. Visit the Franciscan church built upon the ruins of a Byzantine church from the 5th-century and a Crusader church from the 12th-century. After a drive through the hilly Galilean countryside arrive to Tiberias on the shores of the “Sea of Galilee” (Lake Kinneret). This evening enjoy dinner at “Decks Restaurant” located on the shores of the lake. Overnight at your hotel in Tiberias (Scots Hotel)


Wednesday, 9/8: Travel to Safed, one of Judaism’s holiest cities, where Kabbalah flourished during the golden age; visit the ancient synagogues and the charming Artists’ Quarter. Then we ascend the strategic Golan Heights for a greater understanding of the fierce battles that took place during the 1967 Six-Day War and the 1973 Yom Kippur War. Visit Mt. Ben Tal, site of a former Israeli bunker, for a spectacular view of the region. Stop at the Golan Winery, besides enjoying the elaborate presentation of the Golan area, you will have the opportunity to taste some of Israel’s excellent wines. End the day with a drive to Capernaum; see the ruins of the ancient synagogue dating back to the 5th-century.Capernaum was also the home to Peter and the center of Jesus’ preaching. Continue Tabgha place of the Multiplication of Loaves and Fishes: Visit the Church of the Multiplication and its ancient, colorful mosaics and the Church of the Primacy with the “Mensa Christi”, a large rock where Jesus shared meals with his disciples. Ascend the Mount of Beatitudes, marking the place of the Sermon on the Mount while enjoying the beautiful view of the entire Galilee. Overnight at your hotel in Tiberias (Scots Hotel)


Thursday, 9/9: Today we descend and drive south along the Jordan Valley to Beit Shean, an ancient city from the time of King Saul; see the excavated remains of a Roman city. Continue to Beit Alfa National Park to see the Beit Alfa synagogue, which was constructed in the fifth century. The piece de resistance of the visit is the intricate mosaic floor in the central room, one of the most important mosaics discovered in Israel. Each of its three panels depicts a scene – the Holy Ark, the zodiac, and the story of the sacrifice of Issac. Then travel to the coastal area arriving at ancient Caesarea to see the newly opened Caesarea Harbor, with its thrilling, multi-media presentation – you’ll see ancient history come to life! Soon you will arrive at the vibrant city of Tel Aviv. Overnight at your hotel (Renaissance Tel Aviv)


Friday, 9/10: Open day in Tel Aviv so will just explore the city (Renaissance Tel Aviv)


Saturday, 9/11: Another open day in Tel Aviv (Renaissance Tel Aviv)


Sunday, 9/12: Depart Tel Aviv at 12:35 a.m. and arrive at JFK at 5:30 a.m (Back home to the good old USA)

Welcome To My Middle East Travel Blog!

For those of you interested (i.e. Mom & Dad) I plan to document my travels throughout the Middle East. As I've never traveled to this part of the world just thought it would be fun, insightful and perhaps educational to collect my experiences in words and pictures. Hope you enjoy the updates and at a minimum they'll at least provide you an opportunity to kill 10 minutes a day at work.

Ryan